Times-Picayune ranks Brennan's a perfect "5 beans"
Reviewed by Greg Roberts - Times-Picayune restaurant critic
Dinner at Brennan's
Admittedly, it doesn't have quite the ring of "Breakfast at Brennan's," the concept and catchphrase that catapulted the restaurant to national renown in the 1940s and '50s. Indeed, executive chef Michael Roussel calls dinner at Brennan's the best-kept secret in town. If so, the restaurant's fabulous food, superb setting and high-toned service make it a secret well worth knowing.
Brennan's adroitly prepares haute Creole fare of the kind that once defined fine dining in New Orleans, with luxuriant sauces shimmering seductively on abundant servings of seafood or meat. Indulgence is the byword, yet not without balance. The kitchen's deft execution combines with ingredients of stunning quality to create meals of memorable magnificence.
Yet for all its splendor, the food at Brennan's does not overshadow the setting. The restaurant's 200-year-old French Quarter home surrounds a magnificent tree-shaded courtyard and several of the dozen dining rooms scattered through the building afford views of the patio through a sweep of glass. The first of those rooms, an intimate space just off the foyer, sets a gracious tone with its crystal chandeliers, pale gray walls, soft carpet and flickering candlelight. Waiters and bus boys, formally correct in black jackets and bow ties, provide polished service to match.
Best bets:
Oysters Rockefeller ($11.50), Barbecued shrimp ($11.50), Crêpe Barbara ($12.50), Turtle Soup ($7.75), Trout Nancy ($30.00), Veal Kottwitz ($35.00), Tournedos Chanteclair ($35), Pepper Filet with Barbecued Shrimp ($35), Redfish Perez ($30), Salmon Audubon ($30), Bananas Foster ($7.75), Crepes Bridget ($7.75), Crêpes Fitzgerald ($7.75), Lemon Curd Tartelette ($6.75).
Open: Daily. Dinner, 6-10 p.m. Brunch (breakfast), 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Lunch, Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Reservations: Recommended, especially on weekends. Credit cards: V, MC, AE, DIS, DC
Prices: Dinner Appetizers Á La Carte, $9.95-$12.50. Soups, $6.95-$7.75. Salads, $5.75-$6.95. Entrees