Times-Picayune ranks Brennan's a perfect "5 beans"
Reviewed
by Greg Roberts
Times-Picayune restaurant critic |
 |
Dinner at Brennan's
Admittedly, it doesn't
have quite the ring of "Breakfast at Brennan's," the concept
and catchphrase that catapulted the restaurant to national renown in the
1940s and '50s. Indeed, executive chef Michael Roussel calls dinner at
Brennan's the best-kept secret in town. If so, the restaurant's fabulous
food, superb setting and high-toned service make it a secret well worth
knowing.
Brennan's adroitly
prepares haute Creole fare of the kind that once defined fine dining in
New Orleans, with luxuriant sauces shimmering seductively on abundant
servings of seafood or meat. Indulgence is the byword, yet not without
balance. The kitchen's deft execution combines with ingredients of stunning
quality to create meals of memorable magnificence.
Yet for all its splendor,
the food at Brennan's does not overshadow the setting. The restaurant's
200-year-old French Quarter home surrounds a magnificent tree-shaded courtyard
and several of the dozen dining rooms scattered through the building afford
views of the patio through a sweep of glass. The first of those rooms,
an intimate space just off the foyer, sets a gracious tone with its crystal
chandeliers, pale gray walls, soft carpet and flickering candlelight.
Waiters and bus boys, formally correct in black jackets and bow ties,
provide polished service to match.
Best bets:
Oysters Rockefeller ($11.50), Barbecued shrimp ($11.50), Crêpe Barbara
($12.50), Turtle Soup ($7.75), Trout Nancy ($30.00), Veal Kottwitz ($35.00),
Tournedos Chanteclair ($35), Pepper Filet with Barbecued Shrimp ($35),
Redfish Perez ($30), Salmon Audubon ($30), Bananas Foster ($7.75), Crepes
Bridget ($7.75), Crêpes Fitzgerald ($7.75), Lemon Curd Tartelette
($6.75).
• Open: Daily.
Dinner, 6-10 p.m. Brunch (breakfast), 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Lunch, Mon-Fri
11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Reservations: Recommended, especially on weekends.
Credit cards: V, MC, AE, DIS, DC
• Prices: Dinner
Appetizers Á La Carte, $9.95-$12.50. Soups, $6.95-$7.75. Salads,
$5.75-$6.95. Entrees
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