The Ledger
Brennan's
a history lesson in dining
by Trent
Rowe
The history of Brennan's is the story
of fine dining in New Orleans.
It was started by Owen Edward Brennan, son of Irish immigrants
who in 1946 took up the challenge to serve fine French food without
being French.
He was the eldest of six children and married before his youngest
brother and sister were born.
After owning a piece of a gas station and drugstore, and stints
as bookkeeper and salesman, he managed a restaurant.
In 1943 he bought the business of The Old Absinthe House on Bourbon
Street.
The bar was the headquarters of pirate Jean Lafitte, and Brennan
set up a tableau of the Pirate and Andrew Jackson in the room
where they supposedly agreed to defend New Orleans against the
British.
Thousands of calling cards and autographed papers hung from the
ceiling of the bar, and the book "Breakfast at Brennan's, and
Dinner Too," has pictures of the place populated by celebrities
sharing a drink with the host.
Brennan would pass on patron's comments on restaurants to the
owners, and his good friend and restaurateur Count Arnaud was
said to have challenged Brennan: "If you think you can do better,
open a restaurant."
He said an Irishman could only run a hamburger stand.
Brennan leased the Vieux Carre Restaurant across from The Old
Absinthe House and changed the name to Owen Edward Brennan's French
& Creole Restaurant.
He gave his father a job as greeter, and siblings Adelaide and
Ella became bookkeeper and kitchen manager.
Brennan's success was as much due to his personality as his food,
and he became famous among entertainers and the press.
He had no formal education as a restaurateur but he was a promoter.
After the novel "Dinner at Antoine's" was published, he started
plumping Breakfast at Brennan's.
It cost $9.45 in 1955.
When his lease was up on the Bourbon Street building, the landlord
demanded a half interest in the business.
Brennan found a place to rent on Royal Street - The Patio Royal
- and set to converting it into his own place. In 1954 the building
was a bit off the beaten path.
It was to open in the spring of 1956, but Owen Edward Brennan
died in his sleep on November 4, 1955.
His three sons, Pip, Jimmy and Ted run the
restaurant in the same tradition as their father started.
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