Times Picayune
'Breakfast
at Brennan's' honors founding father
by Dale Curry, Food Editor
He was Irish and his restaurant was French. Together, Owen
Edward Brennan and the world famous French Quarter restaurant
that he founded became New Orleans institutions. That was in the
'50s. Today, the two are the focus of a newly published cookbook,
"Breakfast at
Brennan's and Dinner, Too" ($28.50).
The Irishman died in 1955, months before his restaurant moved to
the present Royal
Street address. But his vision lives today through his
three sons, Pip, Jimmy and Ted, who continue to run the restaurant
as a family business and have produced the cookbook as a tribute
to their father.
The opening of Brennan's came as a challenge to the bon
vivant, entrepreneur and son of a New Orleans foundry
laborer. He was told by a competitor that an Irishman could never
run a decent French restaurant.
So Brennan set out to compete with the best of them and that he
did, opening his original restaurant on Bourbon Street, across the
street from the Old Absinthe House, which he also owned.
It wasn't long until Owen Edward Brennan's French and Creole Restaurant
- the original name - was frequented by celebrities and hailed by
national publications.
And French it was, known for pompano
en papillote, escargots bordelaise, crepes and flambes.
And Creole, too, serving local favorites. Original creations were
soon on the menu including the famous bananas Foster.
But Brennan's strategy to make his restaurant famous peaked with
the theme, "breakfast at Brennan's," rivaling a competitor's highly
billed "dinner at Antoine's."
Today, the legacy of the gourmet breakfast lives on with a menu of egg dishes
famous the world over - some original, some borrowed, but many linked
in the minds of tourists and locals alike to the pink French Quarter
restaurant with the rooster logo. Eggs Sardou, Benedict, Hussarde,
Owen and many more make up the brunch dishes detailed in the cookbook.
Although a Brennan's cookbook was published years ago and has been
sold in the restaurant, this is the first formulated by the restaurant
owners themselves.
With it, the family states that it hopes to put to rest many myths
about the origin of Brennan's and broader family links to it and
other restaurants.
The history of the restaurant is accompanied by photographs of clippings,
pictures and memorabilia from the '50s to the present.
The focus is on the family, not the chefs, who are simply mentioned
in the book's opening pages. They are the late Paul Blangé , who
created many of Brennan's original signature dishes, and current
Executive Chef Michael J. Roussel and sous chefs Lazone Randolph
and Harrison Duncan.
Here are some recipes from the Brennan's cookbook:
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