New Orleans diners who found little joy in the nouvelle cuisine food fad and who have tired of plates that look like artistic presentations (but with very little to eat) are now eagerly returning to the classics. After tiresome rounds with sprout-covered dishes and edible flowers, many have felt a longing for a return to the good times: dining in the grand style at the city's leading French Creole establishments.

In recent years, New Orleans has seen a host of new restaurants quickly become all the rage, only to fade away quietly into dust. Unfortunately, none of these managed to measure up to the lasting allure of the old line establishments, which have endured for generations. Ever since Antoine Alciatore created the Antoine's restaurant dynasty 150 years ago, classic French Creole cuisine has thrived in this city.

Since 1946, Brennan's Restaurant has guided both the neophyte and the experienced New Orleans diner through the pleasures of the lavish French Creole table. Run by seasoned restaurateurs Ted, Owen and Jimmy Brennan, it is a timeless place with all the allure and romance of a celebrated New Orleans legacy.

Patrons catch a glimpse into New Orleans' culinary past while savoring the exuberance of fresh, fragrant food served with warmth and style. The 12 intimate dining rooms , illuminated by candlelight at night, are centered by a lush courtyard complete with a fountain brimming with small fish and turtles.

The 30,000 bottle, award-winning wine cellar (which just received a facelift) is continually updated and is now on computer.

Exemplary French sauces, including classics that date back to the Escoffier era, bathe the freshest fish, shellfish, prime meats and fowl that are available daily in the marketplace. For dinner, appetizers like buster crabs béarnaise, frog legs meuniere, escargots bordelaise and Creole onion soup whet the appetite for the marvels of superbly prepared tournedos, veal, lamb, shrimp, crawfish, trout, chicken and grillades.

This is feasting that satisfies the soul. Although famed for its lavish breakfasts, Brennan's more romantic identity is revealed during evenings, when the lights are dimmed and the treasures of the table are filled with extremes -- from the crusty garlic bread oozing with butter and Parmesan to dishes like chateaubriand for two and luscious dessert crepes ceremoniously flamed tableside.

Brennan's Oysters Rockefeller has no rival -- a creamy and peppery blend of ground herbs tinged with Pernod and heaped atop plump bivalves. Another old-timer, Oysters Brennan, gets the juices flowing with plenty of garlic, seasoned bread crumbs and white wine (shades of Mosca's).

Delicate baby buster crabs, fresh from the gulf waters, are crowned with buttery roasted pecans and lots of fresh, lump crabmeat. Barbecued shrimp appear in a pool of mildly seasoned butter sauce, redolent of herbs and already peeled. Small nuances such as these constitute the mark of a truly great restaurant.

Brennan's offers a definitive version of turtle soup - thick and peppery. Flavored with a little lemon and sherry, it has a deep, lingering taste. The gumbo is equally sumptuous, prepared with a rich, dark brown roux and chock full of fresh seafood and okra. The onion soup is also delicious, with its deep, golden, creamy broth, topped with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. For a little of everything, request a demitasse of all three.

This is one of the beauties of dining at such an establishment: you can make special requests, from taster portions of entrees to off-the-menu dishes prepared for those on special diets, Executive Chef Mike Roussel, who regularly makes rounds in the dining rooms, makes it his business to accommodate diners.

Steak lovers savor the vigor of Brennan's superb pepper filet, encrusted with cracked peppercorns, butterflied and served with barbecued shrimp. The filet Stanley is another marvel, a unique blend of fresh mushrooms and red wine served aside a sweet and ripe, sautéed banana, which is offset by a tangy horseradish cream sauce.

Devotees of fresh fish rave about the trout Nancy, which is perhaps the most popular of all Brennan's trout selections. A fresh filet, topped with lots of buttery lump crabmeat, is sprinkled with capers and lingers of lemon zest.

The baby rack of lamb Bouquetiere is highly recommended, when available. Ultra tender, pink in the center and formidable, the mini-chops are encrusted with a light coating of seasoned bread crumbs and a fragrant garlic butter sauce.

Table d'hote entrees for dinner, which include an appetizer, entree, salad, dessert and coffee, are in the $44 range.

Of course, locals have sung the praises of Brennan's bananas Foster for decades. But I prefer the crepes Fitzgerald, another Brennan creation, with its gorgeous presentation and a filling of cream cheese and sour cream, served with strawberries, then flamed in maraschino.

As one of New Orleans's premier restaurants, Brennan's represents the hallmark of superb French Creole cuisine. Located at 417 Royal , it is open daily for breakfast or brunch from 8 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. (lunch specials are served from 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday), and for dinner from 6-10 p.m. Credit cards: all major; complimentary parking available; telephone 525-9771.